Sunday 1 March 2009

reflections on 'nam


Three marvellous weeks in Vietnam are now over and I'm back in London. Tomorrow is March 1 and I haven't been in the office since February 5...

It was a fantastic holiday around one of the most undisputedly beautiful countries in the world. Saigon was an all-consuming experience - great when you're well, not the best place to be if you're sick. Hue has bags of charm and terrific architecture. Hoi An was probably the highlight, as anybody who has been there will understand. Nha Trang has a great beach and good bars, but I probably spent too long there. Mui Ne was terrific - a splendid beach and wondrous sand dunes.

There are notable places I didn't make it to. I chose to give Hanoi (the capital, in the north) a miss as it is relatively cold at this time of year. For similar reasons, and because of cost, I didn't go to Halong Bay. This I really regret - not least because I met travellers who said the weather was fine there and that it was not as expensive as I had thought. I also missed the Mekong Delta and the island of Phu Quoc between Vietnam and Cambodia. There is, however, only so much you should cram into what is a holiday and not a long period of travelling. Plus, having been to Asia for six consecutive years and absolutely loving it, I'm quite sure there will be many other opportunities to see what I missed this time.

The people of Vietnam are incredibly warm and friendly, although there is the constant hassle of people trying to sell stuff. That, however, is hardly unique to this country. I also found it a very safe place - at no time during my trip was I ever worried about anything that might happen to me or my possessions. However, that is partly due to the fact that I always tried to be sensible. Others will tell different tales of their time in Vietnam.

Other than the pictures and statues of Ho Chi Minh, I cannot think of anything I saw that gave the impression of Vietnam being a communist state. Perhaps that's because there isn't anything. After all, Cuba remains a pariah while Vietnam has been visited by Bill Clinton and George W Bush. Starbucks, McDonalds and Subway are not over there yet, but KFC and Pizza Hut have made their first forays, so it's only a matter of time.

Vietnam is also a lot more developed than I thought it would be. Do not think you will be visiting some kind of idyllic alternative to Thailand. It is a country totally geared up to the demands of mass tourism. I should stress, however, that we as tourists can't have everything the way we want it. It's tempting to say somewhere is over developed, but then we all want a nice place to stay and a choice of places to eat and drink. Equally, who are we to say that countries like Vietnam shouldn't develop? 'I'm sorry, but would you please refrain from building any more hotels, because it is just so much more authentic to see you begging in the streets than getting a job'.

I didn't enjoy getting around in Vietnam, as readers of this blog (if there are any) will have seen. The roads are awful, and if you have to use them, and can afford it, hire a car to go somewhere and avoid the buses. The trains are a really good way of seeing the country, but do take a long time. There are plenty of cheap internal flights that certainly take the time out of travelling, but also the soul.

To (finally) sum up, Vietnam is a wonderful country to visit and I would highly recommend it. There are annoyances, but if you want to avoid these then you should stay in an all inclusive resort for two weeks and see nothing but your private beach. Vietnam has so much to see, and such variety for a relatively small country. If you are looking for the ultimate beach experience, then I would still say there is nowhere better than Thailand. But if you want a little bit more than cocktails and chill out in tropical heat, Vietnam is a must.

Tam biet!

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